Because dressing like a Sopranos extra is ok
We're probably not the first to break this news, but men's tracksuits have now officially reached staple status. So if you spent the last few years getting your head around WFH, try making 2023 all about nailing the dress code for that new flexible work schedule. We can’t be the only ones sick of the sight of ubiquitous loungewear in all of its unceremonious glory: saggy jogging bottoms, faded sweatshirts, misshapen T-shirts, the whole mundane works.
That’s not to say that casualwear has to be unstylish. Now, the tracksuit, that’s something we can get behind. Compared with jersey basics, it looks pretty darn pulled-together – by nature of being co-ordinated, that is. The daily pleasure of ‘getting dressed’ might be back, but on those blessed 'at home' days there's a joy to be found in head-to-toe loungewear: it makes quite the statement and, as it happens, is pretty comfy too.
A Brief History of the Tracksuit
With comfort comes a sort of carefree cool. Tracksuits may have started with neat-as-a-pin athletes zipped up in terry-cloth, but they were quickly jazzed up by the OG hip hop crowd, who paid homage to old soul with lashings of gold jewellery, shades and Kangol fedoras.
Not long after, they entered flashy-but-give-a-f*ck territory with the rise of Terrace Casuals. Which isn’t to say logo-clad football hooligans weren’t precious about their Sergio Tacchini and Fila get-ups, but this new strain of dapper was different. These clothes were spenny and covetable, yes, but ultimately practical; made from stretchy, technical fabrics that looked and felt relaxed, allowing for unrestricted movement (and the occasional brawl, admittedly) in a way that stiff suits never could.
The tough-guy-tracksuit has been perpetuated in popular culture ever since. In the Nineties, even Mafiosas swapped their double-breasted tailoring for trackies: there were shell suits aplenty in The Sopranos, three-stripe Adidas styles in Goodfella’s and even Al Pacino – who stuck strictly to silk suits as The Godfather – rocked one in the 1997 film Donnie Brasco.
How, When and Where To Wear a Tracksuit
At first, it was just rappers like Jay Z and P Diddy who had the chutzpah to walk the red carpet wearing a tracksuit, but now most men have attempted one in places they, well, oughtn’t. Life a little lacklustre while WFH? Try sporting head-to-toe velour on your morning coffee run and witness the curious/impressed glances in your wake.
And you don’t need a celebrity stylist to look like you know what you’re doing. A tracksuit takes all of two seconds to throw on and does all the work for you. Simply pair it with trainers, sliders, loafers (see Lakeith Stanfield and Chance the Rapper) or perhaps a Chelsea boot à la Timmy Chalamet.
Now, for the tricky decision of choosing one. Like most things in life, there are different tracksuit tribes. The unabashed flamboyance of Gucci and Celine Homme; the retro cool of Wales Bonner’s Adidas collaboration (good luck getting your hands on that); the comfort of terry-cotton basics or institutional heavy-duty sweats which have been going strong since the Fifties (and don’t require a designer budget).
If you’re still deciding which of those you fall into, or fancy trying your hand at all four, take inspiration from our edit of the 10 best tracksuits for men to shop now and live in the foreseeable
The Best Men's Tracksuits to Buy
Celine Homme
Hedi Slimane was inspired by youth culture for Celine Homme's S/S'22 collection; and while we doubt there were actually football fans pinned on his moodboard, we can definitely see nods to the Terrace Casuals in this post-box red tracksuit. In fact, this design brings to mind Paul Anderson's legendary Fila Terrinda look in 2009's The Firm remake, albeit with the addition of a flamboyant flared leg.
£1,290; mrporter.com
The Resort Co
The grown-up cousin to Noughties velour? It's terry cloth, knitted from cotton (with not even a hint of synthetics) so that it ages beautifully, and looks even more relaxed with every wear. The Resort Co really nails this tactile towelling stuff every season – mix and match this set with the co-ordinating polo shirts and shorts in the collection.
£331; theresortco.com
Wales Bonner
If one thing's for sure, you can count on a Wales Bonner tracksuit. Every season, the designer offers a fresh take on her trademark sporty silhouette – for A/W 2023, it's an understated brown and cream colourblocked design. If the price point is looking a little too high for your loungewear budget, you could wait for her next collaboration with Adidas, instead.
£950; selfridges.com
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Casablanca
Casablanca always did love a leisure look with Miami-retiree vibes. It’s the sporty colour-block shell, retro red and navy colour palette and generous ballooning cut in this tracksuit's case. Wear yours with thickly ribbed socks and a New Balance trainer.
£890; farfetch.com
Gucci
Alessandro Michele is undeniably the king of tracksuits. And there's something democratic about his approach to design, to the point where Paul Pogba and Harry Styles could, perhaps, be spotted in the same outfit. (Obviously, the former would pair his with logo socks and sliders and the latter will run with the Seventies aesthetic every time).
£2,150; mrporter.com
Adidas
We know, Adidas Originals is never not having a moment – but right now it feels like everyone, from Harry Styles to Frank Ocean, is wearing those iconic three stripes. Cut to the perfect relaxed fit, you could prep this set up with loafers or dress it down with sneakers.
£140; mrporter.com
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Thom Browne
Trust Thom Browne to dig deep and find a glimmer of prep in the tracksuit. Tapping into all things Fifties Americana, this grey jersey set feels all kinds of track n' field collegiate with its V-neck cardigan and the brand's signature tri-stripes.
£1,290; mrporter.com
Needles
On the search for a statement tracksuit? Look no further than Needles. The Japanese label has a range of ugly-cool colour combos that stand out in the crowd. Who knew a sludgy green, deep purple pairing would be a match made in athleisure heaven?
£500; mrporter.com
COS
Before lockdown, we would have scoffed at anyone deeming cashmere loungewear an essential – now we shop with WFH days at the forefront of our minds. COS' matching hoodie and joggers are spun from recycled yarns, so you can tick off luxury and sustainable at the same time.
£360; cos.com
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Rhude
LA-based brand Rhude is loved by the likes of ASAP Rocky and Kendrick Lamar. Founder and Forbes 30 Under 30 nominee, Rhuigi Villaseñori is inspired by streetwear and West Coast culture when designing, so it’s only right that the tracksuit takes centre stage in his collections. Cut from black velour, this sporty set is panelled with taupe side stripes and embroidered with the brand’s preppy crest.
£2345; mrporter.com
